作者：
出版社：
简介：Summary:
Publisher Summary 1
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas and in coastal regions. The book brings graduate students, researchers and engineers up-to-date with the science and technology involved, assuming only a basic understanding of physics, mathematics and statistics.
Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterize waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalized observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectial energy balance: their origin (generation by wind), their transformation to swell (dispersion), their propagation into coastal waters (shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection), the interaction amongst themselves (wave---wave interactions) and their decay (white-capping, bottom friction, adn surf-breaking). He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Early in his career, the author was involved in the development of techniques to measure the directional characteristics of wind-generated waves in the open sea. He contributed to various projects, in particular the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), which laid the scientific foundation for modern wave prediction. Later, he concentrated on advanced research and development for operational wave prediction and was thus involved in the initial development of the computer models currently used for global wave prediction at many oceanographic and meteorological institutes in the world. More recently, he initiated, supervised and co-authored SWAN, the computer model referred to above, for predicting waves in coastal waters. For 10 years he co-chaired the WISE (Waves in Shallow Environments) group. a world-wide forum for research and development underlying operational wave prediction. He has published widely on the subject and teaches at the Delft University of Technology and UNESCO-IHE in the Netherlands.
`...Will undoubedly be welcomed by the extensive engineering community concerned with the impact of ocean waves on ships. off-shore structures, coastal protection, dykes, harbours, and tidal basins.' K.Hasselmann, Director (retired) of the Max-Planck-Institut fur Meteorologie, Humburg, and Emeritus professor of Theoretical Geophysics, University of Hamburg, Germany
The author, well-known for his work in wave modeling and the development of the SWAN model. provides a valuable introduction Will be very helpful to students as well as professionals, interested in wind---wave wave modeling. All SWAN users will want a copy' R.A. Daliymple, Williard & Lillian Hackerman Professor of Civil Engineering, Johns Hopkins University, USA
`...excellent not only as a textbook for students but also as a reference book for professionals.' Y Goda, Executive Advisor to ECOH Corporation; Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University; Director-General (retired) of the Port and Airport Research Institute Japan
`...a "must have" for engineers and scientists interested in the ocean. It is an invaluable reference for students, researchers and practitioners' L Young. Vice-Chancellor and President of Swinburne University of Technology, Australia
`...a great book. The author is one of the leading experts in the field of waves who has taught the subject for over 20 years---and it shows' J W Kamphuis, Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Canada
`...highlights key concepts, unites seemingly unconnected theories. and unlocks the complexity of the sea will become an important reference for students coastal and ocean engineers and oceanographers' J. Smith, Editor, international Conference on Coastal Engineering US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, USA
