简介
Summary:
Publisher Summary 1
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas and in coastal regions. The book brings graduate students, researchers and engineers up-to-date with the science and technology involved, assuming only a basic understanding of physics, mathematics and statistics.
Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterize waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalized observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectial energy balance: their origin (generation by wind), their transformation to swell (dispersion), their propagation into coastal waters (shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection), the interaction amongst themselves (wave---wave interactions) and their decay (white-capping, bottom friction, adn surf-breaking). He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Early in his career, the author was involved in the development of techniques to measure the directional characteristics of wind-generated waves in the open sea. He contributed to various projects, in particular the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), which laid the scientific foundation for modern wave prediction. Later, he concentrated on advanced research and development for operational wave prediction and was thus involved in the initial development of the computer models currently used for global wave prediction at many oceanographic and meteorological institutes in the world. More recently, he initiated, supervised and co-authored SWAN, the computer model referred to above, for predicting waves in coastal waters. For 10 years he co-chaired the WISE (Waves in Shallow Environments) group. a world-wide forum for research and development underlying operational wave prediction. He has published widely on the subject and teaches at the Delft University of Technology and UNESCO-IHE in the Netherlands.
`...Will undoubedly be welcomed by the extensive engineering community concerned with the impact of ocean waves on ships. off-shore structures, coastal protection, dykes, harbours, and tidal basins.' K.Hasselmann, Director (retired) of the Max-Planck-Institut fur Meteorologie, Humburg, and Emeritus professor of Theoretical Geophysics, University of Hamburg, Germany
The author, well-known for his work in wave modeling and the development of the SWAN model. provides a valuable introduction Will be very helpful to students as well as professionals, interested in wind---wave wave modeling. All SWAN users will want a copy' R.A. Daliymple, Williard & Lillian Hackerman Professor of Civil Engineering, Johns Hopkins University, USA
`...excellent not only as a textbook for students but also as a reference book for professionals.' Y Goda, Executive Advisor to ECOH Corporation; Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University; Director-General (retired) of the Port and Airport Research Institute Japan
`...a "must have" for engineers and scientists interested in the ocean. It is an invaluable reference for students, researchers and practitioners' L Young. Vice-Chancellor and President of Swinburne University of Technology, Australia
`...a great book. The author is one of the leading experts in the field of waves who has taught the subject for over 20 years---and it shows' J W Kamphuis, Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Canada
`...highlights key concepts, unites seemingly unconnected theories. and unlocks the complexity of the sea will become an important reference for students coastal and ocean engineers and oceanographers' J. Smith, Editor, international Conference on Coastal Engineering US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, USA
目录
Table Of Contents:
Preface xiii
Acknowledgements xv
1 Introduction 1(9)
1.1 Key concepts 1(1)
1.2 This book and its reader 1(2)
1.3 Physical aspects and scales 3(4)
1.4 The structure of the book 7(3)
2 Observation techniques 10(14)
2.1 Key concepts 10(1)
2.2 Introduction 10(2)
2.3 In situ techniques 12(6)
2.3.1 Wave buoys 13(2)
2.3.2 Wave poles 15(2)
2.3.3 Other in situ techniques 17(1)
2.4 Remote-sensing techniques 18(6)
2.4.1 Imaging techniques 19(1)
Stereo-photography 19(1)
Imaging and non-imaging radar 20(1)
2.4.2 Altimetry 21(1)
Laser altimetry 21(1)
Acoustic altimetry 22(1)
Radar altimetry 22(2)
3 Description of ocean waves 24(32)
3.1 Key concepts 24(1)
3.2 Introduction 24(1)
3.3 Wave height and period 25(4)
3.3.1 Waves 25(2)
3.3.2 Wave height 27(2)
3.3.3 Wave period 29(1)
3.4 Visual observations and instrumental measurements 29(2)
3.5 The wave spectrum 31(12)
3.5.1 Introduction 31(2)
3.5.2 The random-phase/amplitude model 33(3)
3.5.3 The variance density spectrum 36(2)
3.5.4 Interpretation of the variance density spectrum 38(3)
3.5.5 Alternative definitions 41(1)
The spectral domain 41(1)
Formal definition 42(1)
3.5.6 The frequency-direction spectrum 43(4)
3.5.7 The spectrum at sea 47(1)
3.5.8 Wave-number spectra 48(4)
The one-dimensional wave-number spectrum 49(1)
The two-dimensional wave-number spectrum 49(1)
The three-dimensional frequency-wave-number spectrum 50(1)
3.5.9 Spectrum acquisition 51(1)
3.6 Transfer functions and response spectra 52(4)
4 Statistics 56(50)
4.1 Key concepts 56(1)
4.2 Short-term statistics 56(29)
4.2.1 Instantaneous surface elevation 57(3)
4.2.2 Wave height and period 60(1)
Wave period 60(2)
Crest height 62(6)
Wave height 68(7)
4.2.3 Wave groups 75(2)
4.2.4 Extreme values 77(1)
Extreme elevations 78(4)
Extreme wave heights 82(3)
4.3 Long-term statistics (wave climate) 85(21)
4.3.1 The initial-distribution approach 87(8)
4.3.2 The peak-over-threshold approach 95(3)
4.3.3 The annual-maximum approach 98(3)
4.3.4 Individual wave height 101(4)
4.3.5 Wave atlases 105(1)
5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 106(39)
5.1 Key concepts 106(1)
5.2 Introduction 107(1)
5.3 Basic equations and boundary conditions 107(11)
5.3.1 Idealisations of the water and its motions 108(1)
5.3.2 Balance equations 109(3)
Mass balance and continuity equations 112(1)
Momentum balance 112(2)
5.3.3 Boundary conditions 114(1)
5.3.4 The velocity potential function 115(3)
5.4 Propagating harmonic wave 118(13)
5.4.1 Introduction 118(1)
5.4.2 Kinematics 119(1)
Particle velocity 120(1)
Particle path 121(2)
5.4.3 Dynamics 123(1)
The dispersion relationship 123(2)
Phase velocity and group velocity 125(3)
Wave-induced pressure 128(1)
5.4.4 Capillary waves 129(2)
5.5 Wave energy (transport) 131(6)
5.5.1 Wave energy 131(1)
5.5.2 Energy transport 132(5)
5.6 Nonlinear, permanent waves 137(8)
5.6.1 Introduction 137(2)
5.6.2 Stokes' theory and Dean's stream-function theory 139(3)
5.6.3 Cnoidal and solitary waves 142(3)
6 Waves in oceanic waters 145(52)
6.1 Key concepts 145(1)
6.2 Introduction 146(1)
6.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (oceanic waters) 147(20)
6.3.1 Idealised wind 148(2)
6.3.2 The significant wave 150(5)
6.3.3 The one-dimensional wave spectrum 155(7)
6.3.4 The two-dimensional wave spectrum 162(5)
6.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (oceanic waters) 167(30)
6.4.1 The energy balance equation 169(5)
6.4.2 Wave propagation and swell 174(3)
6.4.3 Generation by wind 177(6)
6.4.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions (quadruplet) 183(5)
6.4.5 Dissipation (white-capping) 188(4)
6.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 192(2)
6.4.7 First-, second- and third-generation wave models 194(3)
7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 197(47)
7.1 Key concepts 197(1)
7.2 Introduction 197(2)
7.3 Propagation 199(26)
7.3.1 Shoaling 199(3)
7.3.2 Refraction 202(8)
7.3.3 Diffraction 210(7)
7.3.4 Refraction and diffraction 217(1)
7.3.5 Tides and currents 218(3)
7.3.6 Reflections 221(4)
7.4 Wave-induced set-up and currents 225(14)
7.4.1 Introduction 225(1)
7.4.2 Wave momentum and radiation stress 225(9)
7.4.3 Wave-induced set-up, set-down and currents 234(5)
7.5 Nonlinear, evolving waves 239(3)
7.5.1 Introduction 239(1)
7.5.2 The Boussinesq model 240(2)
7.6 Breaking waves 242(2)
8 Waves in coastal waters 244(42)
8.1 Key concepts 244(1)
8.2 Introduction 245(1)
8.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (coastal waters) 246(10)
8.3.1 The significant wave 247(3)
8.3.2 The one-dimensional wave spectrum 250(6)
8.3.3 The two-dimensional wave spectrum 256(1)
8.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (coastal waters) 256(30)
8.4.1 The energy/action balance equation 257(6)
8.4.2 Wave propagation 263(5)
8.4.3 Generation by wind 268(1)
8.4.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions 269(1)
Quadruplet wave-wave interactions 269(1)
Triad wave-wave interactions 270(6)
8.4.5 Dissipation 276(1)
White-capping 276(1)
Bottom friction 276(5)
Depth-induced (surf-)breaking 281(3)
8.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 284(2)
9 The SWAN wave model 286(24)
9.1 Key concepts 286(1)
9.2 Introduction 286(2)
9.3 Action balance 288(8)
9.3.1 The action balance equation 288(1)
9.3.2 Generation by wind 289(3)
9.3.3 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions 292(1)
Quadruplet wave-wave interactions 292(1)
Triad wave-wave interactions 293(1)
9.3.4 Dissipation 294(1)
White-capping 294(1)
Bottom friction 295(1)
Depth-induced (surf-)breaking 296(1)
Reflection, transmission and absorption 296(1)
9.4 Wave-induced set-up 296(2)
9.5 Numerical techniques 298(12)
9.5.1 Introduction 298(1)
9.5.2 Propagation 299(2)
Numerical schemes 301(4)
Solvers, grids and boundaries 305(1)
9.5.3 Generation, wave-wave interactions and dissipation 306(1)
Positive source terms 307(1)
Negative source terms 307(1)
Numerical stability 308(1)
9.5.4 Wave-induced set-up 309(1)
Appendix A Random variables 310(8)
Appendix B Linear wave theory 318(6)
Appendix C Spectral analysis 324(11)
Appendix D Tides and currents 335(7)
Appendix E Shallow-water equations 342(5)
References 347(32)
Index 379
Preface xiii
Acknowledgements xv
1 Introduction 1(9)
1.1 Key concepts 1(1)
1.2 This book and its reader 1(2)
1.3 Physical aspects and scales 3(4)
1.4 The structure of the book 7(3)
2 Observation techniques 10(14)
2.1 Key concepts 10(1)
2.2 Introduction 10(2)
2.3 In situ techniques 12(6)
2.3.1 Wave buoys 13(2)
2.3.2 Wave poles 15(2)
2.3.3 Other in situ techniques 17(1)
2.4 Remote-sensing techniques 18(6)
2.4.1 Imaging techniques 19(1)
Stereo-photography 19(1)
Imaging and non-imaging radar 20(1)
2.4.2 Altimetry 21(1)
Laser altimetry 21(1)
Acoustic altimetry 22(1)
Radar altimetry 22(2)
3 Description of ocean waves 24(32)
3.1 Key concepts 24(1)
3.2 Introduction 24(1)
3.3 Wave height and period 25(4)
3.3.1 Waves 25(2)
3.3.2 Wave height 27(2)
3.3.3 Wave period 29(1)
3.4 Visual observations and instrumental measurements 29(2)
3.5 The wave spectrum 31(12)
3.5.1 Introduction 31(2)
3.5.2 The random-phase/amplitude model 33(3)
3.5.3 The variance density spectrum 36(2)
3.5.4 Interpretation of the variance density spectrum 38(3)
3.5.5 Alternative definitions 41(1)
The spectral domain 41(1)
Formal definition 42(1)
3.5.6 The frequency-direction spectrum 43(4)
3.5.7 The spectrum at sea 47(1)
3.5.8 Wave-number spectra 48(4)
The one-dimensional wave-number spectrum 49(1)
The two-dimensional wave-number spectrum 49(1)
The three-dimensional frequency-wave-number spectrum 50(1)
3.5.9 Spectrum acquisition 51(1)
3.6 Transfer functions and response spectra 52(4)
4 Statistics 56(50)
4.1 Key concepts 56(1)
4.2 Short-term statistics 56(29)
4.2.1 Instantaneous surface elevation 57(3)
4.2.2 Wave height and period 60(1)
Wave period 60(2)
Crest height 62(6)
Wave height 68(7)
4.2.3 Wave groups 75(2)
4.2.4 Extreme values 77(1)
Extreme elevations 78(4)
Extreme wave heights 82(3)
4.3 Long-term statistics (wave climate) 85(21)
4.3.1 The initial-distribution approach 87(8)
4.3.2 The peak-over-threshold approach 95(3)
4.3.3 The annual-maximum approach 98(3)
4.3.4 Individual wave height 101(4)
4.3.5 Wave atlases 105(1)
5 Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 106(39)
5.1 Key concepts 106(1)
5.2 Introduction 107(1)
5.3 Basic equations and boundary conditions 107(11)
5.3.1 Idealisations of the water and its motions 108(1)
5.3.2 Balance equations 109(3)
Mass balance and continuity equations 112(1)
Momentum balance 112(2)
5.3.3 Boundary conditions 114(1)
5.3.4 The velocity potential function 115(3)
5.4 Propagating harmonic wave 118(13)
5.4.1 Introduction 118(1)
5.4.2 Kinematics 119(1)
Particle velocity 120(1)
Particle path 121(2)
5.4.3 Dynamics 123(1)
The dispersion relationship 123(2)
Phase velocity and group velocity 125(3)
Wave-induced pressure 128(1)
5.4.4 Capillary waves 129(2)
5.5 Wave energy (transport) 131(6)
5.5.1 Wave energy 131(1)
5.5.2 Energy transport 132(5)
5.6 Nonlinear, permanent waves 137(8)
5.6.1 Introduction 137(2)
5.6.2 Stokes' theory and Dean's stream-function theory 139(3)
5.6.3 Cnoidal and solitary waves 142(3)
6 Waves in oceanic waters 145(52)
6.1 Key concepts 145(1)
6.2 Introduction 146(1)
6.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (oceanic waters) 147(20)
6.3.1 Idealised wind 148(2)
6.3.2 The significant wave 150(5)
6.3.3 The one-dimensional wave spectrum 155(7)
6.3.4 The two-dimensional wave spectrum 162(5)
6.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (oceanic waters) 167(30)
6.4.1 The energy balance equation 169(5)
6.4.2 Wave propagation and swell 174(3)
6.4.3 Generation by wind 177(6)
6.4.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions (quadruplet) 183(5)
6.4.5 Dissipation (white-capping) 188(4)
6.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 192(2)
6.4.7 First-, second- and third-generation wave models 194(3)
7 Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 197(47)
7.1 Key concepts 197(1)
7.2 Introduction 197(2)
7.3 Propagation 199(26)
7.3.1 Shoaling 199(3)
7.3.2 Refraction 202(8)
7.3.3 Diffraction 210(7)
7.3.4 Refraction and diffraction 217(1)
7.3.5 Tides and currents 218(3)
7.3.6 Reflections 221(4)
7.4 Wave-induced set-up and currents 225(14)
7.4.1 Introduction 225(1)
7.4.2 Wave momentum and radiation stress 225(9)
7.4.3 Wave-induced set-up, set-down and currents 234(5)
7.5 Nonlinear, evolving waves 239(3)
7.5.1 Introduction 239(1)
7.5.2 The Boussinesq model 240(2)
7.6 Breaking waves 242(2)
8 Waves in coastal waters 244(42)
8.1 Key concepts 244(1)
8.2 Introduction 245(1)
8.3 Wave modelling for idealised cases (coastal waters) 246(10)
8.3.1 The significant wave 247(3)
8.3.2 The one-dimensional wave spectrum 250(6)
8.3.3 The two-dimensional wave spectrum 256(1)
8.4 Wave modelling for arbitrary cases (coastal waters) 256(30)
8.4.1 The energy/action balance equation 257(6)
8.4.2 Wave propagation 263(5)
8.4.3 Generation by wind 268(1)
8.4.4 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions 269(1)
Quadruplet wave-wave interactions 269(1)
Triad wave-wave interactions 270(6)
8.4.5 Dissipation 276(1)
White-capping 276(1)
Bottom friction 276(5)
Depth-induced (surf-)breaking 281(3)
8.4.6 Energy flow in the spectrum 284(2)
9 The SWAN wave model 286(24)
9.1 Key concepts 286(1)
9.2 Introduction 286(2)
9.3 Action balance 288(8)
9.3.1 The action balance equation 288(1)
9.3.2 Generation by wind 289(3)
9.3.3 Nonlinear wave-wave interactions 292(1)
Quadruplet wave-wave interactions 292(1)
Triad wave-wave interactions 293(1)
9.3.4 Dissipation 294(1)
White-capping 294(1)
Bottom friction 295(1)
Depth-induced (surf-)breaking 296(1)
Reflection, transmission and absorption 296(1)
9.4 Wave-induced set-up 296(2)
9.5 Numerical techniques 298(12)
9.5.1 Introduction 298(1)
9.5.2 Propagation 299(2)
Numerical schemes 301(4)
Solvers, grids and boundaries 305(1)
9.5.3 Generation, wave-wave interactions and dissipation 306(1)
Positive source terms 307(1)
Negative source terms 307(1)
Numerical stability 308(1)
9.5.4 Wave-induced set-up 309(1)
Appendix A Random variables 310(8)
Appendix B Linear wave theory 318(6)
Appendix C Spectral analysis 324(11)
Appendix D Tides and currents 335(7)
Appendix E Shallow-water equations 342(5)
References 347(32)
Index 379
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