简介
Until recently, fashion was considered the "F-word" in intellectual circles, dismissed as unworthy of serious attention. Yet no area of life, no individual moment, stands outside fashion's discourses. Intuitively, we all know that clothing is a language, incessesantly communicating messages about its wearer. But who speaks this language, to whom it is addressed, what does it mean, and how are its meanings established and tranformed? On Fashion explores the ways our material, political, psychological, sexual, even intellectual lives are woven into fashion's fabric. This stimulating collection of essays explores fashion's symbolic and figurative functions in photography, cinema, and video; in consumerism, postmodernism, and feminism; in political and material culture; and in self-definition and subjectivity. They demonstrate the pervasive reach of fashion and its expressions. The collection contains over sixty photographs and illustrations and includes essays by Barbara Brodman, Mary Ann Caws, Helene Cixous, Linda Benn DeLibero, Diana Fuss, Cheryl Herr, Karla Jay, Deborah Jenson, Douglas Kellner, Ingeborg Majer O'Sickey, Leslie W. Rabine, Andrew Ross, Sonia Rykiel, Carol Shloss, Kaja Silverman, Maureen Turim, and Iris Marion Young.
目录
Table Of Contents:
Acknowledgments ix
Introduction 1(20)
Shari Benstock
Suzanne Ferriss
Design dictates
Barbie Magazine and the Aesthetic Commodification of Girls' Bodies 21(20)
Ingeborg Majer O'Sickey
This Year's Girl: A Personal/Critical History of Twiggy 41(18)
Linda Benn DeLibero
A Woman's Two Bodies: Fashion Magazines, Consumerism, and Feminism 59(17)
Leslie W. Rabine
No Bumps, No Excrescences: Amelia Earhart's Failed Flight into Fashions 76(19)
Karla Jay
Sonia Rykiel in Translation 95(5)
Helene Cixous
From Celebration 100(11)
Sonia Rykiel
Sight lines
Off the (W)rack: Fashion and Pain in the Work of Diane Arbus 111(14)
Carol Shloss
An Erotics of Representation: Fashioning the Icon with Man Ray 125(15)
Mary Ann Caws
Seduction and Elegance: The New Woman of Fashion in Silent Cinema 140(19)
Maureen Turim
Madonna, Fashion, and Identity 159(24)
Douglas Kellner
Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse 183(14)
Kaja Silverman
Women Recovering Our Clothes 197(14)
Iris Marion Young
Fashion and the Homospectatorial Look 211(24)
Diana Fuss
Body politics
Terrorist Chic: Style and Domination in Contemporary Ireland 235(32)
Cheryl Herr
Paris or Perish: The Plight of the Latin American Indian in a Westernized World 267(17)
Barbara Brodman
Tribalism in Effect 284(17)
Andrew Ross
Selected Bibliography 301(2)
Contributors' Notes 303(4)
Index 307
Acknowledgments ix
Introduction 1(20)
Shari Benstock
Suzanne Ferriss
Design dictates
Barbie Magazine and the Aesthetic Commodification of Girls' Bodies 21(20)
Ingeborg Majer O'Sickey
This Year's Girl: A Personal/Critical History of Twiggy 41(18)
Linda Benn DeLibero
A Woman's Two Bodies: Fashion Magazines, Consumerism, and Feminism 59(17)
Leslie W. Rabine
No Bumps, No Excrescences: Amelia Earhart's Failed Flight into Fashions 76(19)
Karla Jay
Sonia Rykiel in Translation 95(5)
Helene Cixous
From Celebration 100(11)
Sonia Rykiel
Sight lines
Off the (W)rack: Fashion and Pain in the Work of Diane Arbus 111(14)
Carol Shloss
An Erotics of Representation: Fashioning the Icon with Man Ray 125(15)
Mary Ann Caws
Seduction and Elegance: The New Woman of Fashion in Silent Cinema 140(19)
Maureen Turim
Madonna, Fashion, and Identity 159(24)
Douglas Kellner
Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse 183(14)
Kaja Silverman
Women Recovering Our Clothes 197(14)
Iris Marion Young
Fashion and the Homospectatorial Look 211(24)
Diana Fuss
Body politics
Terrorist Chic: Style and Domination in Contemporary Ireland 235(32)
Cheryl Herr
Paris or Perish: The Plight of the Latin American Indian in a Westernized World 267(17)
Barbara Brodman
Tribalism in Effect 284(17)
Andrew Ross
Selected Bibliography 301(2)
Contributors' Notes 303(4)
Index 307
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