简介
"Artist/Rebel/Dandy" celebrates the pleasures of the sharp-dressed man, from the discreet sophistication of the consummately elegant George Bryan "Beau" Brummell in the early 19th century to the diverse, highly personal flair of the tastemakers who colour the landscape of menswear today. Since the word "dandy" came into vogue in London in 1813, it has at times been used to describe someone superficial, flamboyant, and self-indulgent. Instead, the dandy is here shown to employ profound thought and imagination in his self-presentation, fashioning an image that often challenges the status quo and transcends the ordinary. A series of fascinating essays traces the often contradictory definitions and images of the dandy, the history of young men and their clothes in the long 19th century, the exquisite fabrics and tailoring that play an important role in dandy style, and the relationship of black dandyism and hip-hop. In addition, this book features fifteen musings on notable dandies written by individuals who share a kinship with their subject, including Patti Smith considering Charles Baudelaire; a reflection on Oscar Wilde by his grandson, Merlin Holland; Daniela Morera, formerly part of Andy Warhol's Factory crowd, reminiscing about the artist's image; and writer Philip Hoare describing the "thrift-shop dandyism" of director John Waters.
目录
Glenn O'Brien muses on Beau Brummell
Patti Smith muses on Charles Baudelaire
Fabricating a dream: two centuries of sketching and defining the dandy / Kate Irvin
Merlin Holland muses on Oscar Wilde
Horace D. Ballard Jr. muses on W. E. B. Du Bois
Mark Samuels Lasner muses on Max Beerbohm
The politics of fashion and the pleasures of youth: young men and their clothes, 1814-1914 / Christopher Breward
Hugo Vickers muses on Cecil Beaton
Daniela Morera muses on Andy Warhol
Andrew Wilson muses on Malcolm McLaren
The material education of the dandy: from Beau Brummell to the tweed run / Laurie Anne Brewer
Scott Schuman muses on Luciano Barbera
Philip Hoare muses on John Waters
Viktor Wynd muses on Sabastian Horsley
Derrick Miller muses on Motofumi "Poggy" Kogi
"Fresh-dressed like a million buck": black dandyism and hip-hop / Monica L. Miller
Gigi Gray muses on Ouigi Theodore
James Sherwood muses on Guy Hills
Dirk Standen muses on Waris Ahluwalia.
Patti Smith muses on Charles Baudelaire
Fabricating a dream: two centuries of sketching and defining the dandy / Kate Irvin
Merlin Holland muses on Oscar Wilde
Horace D. Ballard Jr. muses on W. E. B. Du Bois
Mark Samuels Lasner muses on Max Beerbohm
The politics of fashion and the pleasures of youth: young men and their clothes, 1814-1914 / Christopher Breward
Hugo Vickers muses on Cecil Beaton
Daniela Morera muses on Andy Warhol
Andrew Wilson muses on Malcolm McLaren
The material education of the dandy: from Beau Brummell to the tweed run / Laurie Anne Brewer
Scott Schuman muses on Luciano Barbera
Philip Hoare muses on John Waters
Viktor Wynd muses on Sabastian Horsley
Derrick Miller muses on Motofumi "Poggy" Kogi
"Fresh-dressed like a million buck": black dandyism and hip-hop / Monica L. Miller
Gigi Gray muses on Ouigi Theodore
James Sherwood muses on Guy Hills
Dirk Standen muses on Waris Ahluwalia.
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